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| |-+  compressor driven systems (Moderator: WGB)
| | |-+  How to add refrigerant?
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Author Topic: How to add refrigerant?  (Read 48497 times)
Tom
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« Reply #15 on: February 29, 2012, 11:01:26 AM »

+1 with Throb on the air. Make sure you have a good vacuum on it and that the system holds vacuum overnight. I used to build some of the woulds coldest freon refrigeration systems. They were used to replace liquid nitrogen in vacuum system cold traps. They got down to -280f and used a mixture of freon's in a cascade system.
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Ashwamegh 6/1 - ST5 @ just over 1750 hrs

Tom
vdubnut62
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« Reply #16 on: February 29, 2012, 02:36:13 PM »

+1 with Throb on the air. Make sure you have a good vacuum on it and that the system holds vacuum overnight. I used to build some of the woulds coldest freon refrigeration systems. They were used to replace liquid nitrogen in vacuum system cold traps. They got down to -280f and used a mixture of freon's in a cascade system.

Now that's cold enough to test your frosticles! Cheesy
Ron.
« Last Edit: February 29, 2012, 02:38:53 PM by vdubnut62 » Logged

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bschwartz
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« Reply #17 on: February 29, 2012, 05:40:23 PM »

fleabay access valves.....

Might these solve your problem?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BVP31-3in1-Line-Tap-Access-Piercing-Valve-Qty3-HVAC-r-Hand-Tools-/230753543181?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b9fba40d#ht_1407wt_934
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- Brett

Metro 6/1, ST-5 - sold Sad
1982 300SD
1995 Suburban 6.5 TD
1994 Ford F-250 7.3 TD
1950s ? Oilwell (Witte) CD-12 (Behemoth), ST-12
What else can I run on WVO?
...Oh, and an old R-170
bschwartz
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« Reply #18 on: February 29, 2012, 05:50:56 PM »

or these.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pcs-Air-Conditioner-Spare-Part-Filling-Access-Valve-/250987222070?pt=Pneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item3a70011436#ht_2573wt_962
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- Brett

Metro 6/1, ST-5 - sold Sad
1982 300SD
1995 Suburban 6.5 TD
1994 Ford F-250 7.3 TD
1950s ? Oilwell (Witte) CD-12 (Behemoth), ST-12
What else can I run on WVO?
...Oh, and an old R-170
Tom
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« Reply #19 on: February 29, 2012, 06:06:05 PM »

Those fancy self tappers will work, but since the freon is going to be drained anyway just solder (use 95/5) on a schrader valve to the stubs if present. The self tappers are a likely place for a leak to form as they are subject to vibration. Do you have a picture of the compressor and suction/discharge lines you could post?
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Ashwamegh 6/1 - ST5 @ just over 1750 hrs

Tom
Ronmar
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« Reply #20 on: February 29, 2012, 06:10:52 PM »

Exactly what Thob said, with one addition.  In addition to a leak to atmosphere that creates a mixture that falls within the UEL and LEL, you also need a source of ignition that occurs within the vapor cloud that is within the U and L limits...  I know people set crap on fire every minute of every day, but it really does take a specific set of circumstances to start and support combustion.

Inside the system, Propane acts just like amonia or any cluro-flurocarbon phase change refrigerant.
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Ron
"It ain't broke till I Can't make parts for it"
BioHazard
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« Reply #21 on: February 29, 2012, 08:09:14 PM »

Do you have a picture of the compressor and suction/discharge lines you could post?
When I'm done all the plumbing will be "custom". I'm going to change the condenser to a coil of copper tubing inside a homemade heat exchanger to run water over it. We'll see how hot I can make my little pond this summer.  Grin I might build a new case for it so it's no longer window mounted.

Those valves definately clear up a lot of confusion for me. I was searching for "service ports".  Smiley
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Derb
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« Reply #22 on: March 03, 2012, 02:08:08 AM »

Hi Fellas. A lot of the early jap Import cars coming into NZ had been topped up with LPG by dodgey Japanese car dealers. they ran for years without giving trouble. No horror stories of cars going up in an inferno after a crash etc etc etc. Not that i would do it but it obviously works. cheers, derb.
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Derb.
Kawerau
Bay of Plenty
New Zealand
Honda EU20i
Anderson 2 HP/Fisher & Paykel PM conversion
Anderson 3.5 HP
Villiers Mk20
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